If her aim is good I will not need them! LOLIf her aim's good, then you can get a couple of neat .44cal holes in the caravan, and no need to drill!
OK, OK, so it never happened
- Thread starter ThunderRd
- Start date
Kaitain
Active Member
But you said you could dodge!
Kaitain
Active Member
True, but it's the right thing to use if you want to put standard 12mm tube through a caravan wall without spending ages trying to ream the holes neatly. I suppose you could get away with a .32 if you were using 1/4" thin-wall pipe...
I thought I could!! LOLBut you said you could dodge!
Ok, I've got everything put together in the case now, and it's looking pretty good. Now, I'm trying to figure out a decent-looking solution to mount the radiator of the AIO outside the box. The damned hoses on the thing are just too short. They ought to make options when you buy these AIOs; that way you could choose a hose length from a list, maybe long, medium, or short.
Photos to come.
Haven't delved deeply into the UEFI as yet, but everything running smoothly at stock settings.
Photos to come.
Haven't delved deeply into the UEFI as yet, but everything running smoothly at stock settings.
Have no shopping tips for the near east.But most hardware stores here carry tubing. E-bay and Amason as well...just saying...":O}
"Measure twice, cut once." :O}
Can't do it, it's a sealed system. Voiding the warranty of a $250 cooling system isn't going to happen, either 
I don't know if the coolant is pressurized; that would be the end of that. It's not as simple as extending the tubing in a custom watercooling loop.
I don't know if the coolant is pressurized; that would be the end of that. It's not as simple as extending the tubing in a custom watercooling loop.
Here are some photos to help you understand the problem. Click on them to see a full-sized photo. The new rad for the AIO cooler is sitting on the top. The rad for the custom loop is in the bottom of the case, under the GPU.
Front view. You can see the new radiator on top.
Top view of the radiator, and the tubing going into the case area.
Here's how the rad sits on top of the case.
It's a bit ghetto, but I guess it will have to do.
I can't raise it any more, because of the short length of the tubing:
Here's a closer look at the rad tubing. I've removed a sliding panel from the top of the box that covers the liquid reservoir for the custom loop. That particular panel has to be cut out to allow for the position of the tubing entry. There just isn't any slack:
Here's the tubing descending into the case. Note the lack of slack. I'm actually lucky it reaches the CPU block at all:
And some other odd views of the project:
Front view. You can see the new radiator on top.
Top view of the radiator, and the tubing going into the case area.
Here's how the rad sits on top of the case.
It's a bit ghetto, but I guess it will have to do.
I can't raise it any more, because of the short length of the tubing:
Here's a closer look at the rad tubing. I've removed a sliding panel from the top of the box that covers the liquid reservoir for the custom loop. That particular panel has to be cut out to allow for the position of the tubing entry. There just isn't any slack:
Here's the tubing descending into the case. Note the lack of slack. I'm actually lucky it reaches the CPU block at all:
And some other odd views of the project:
I'm trying really I am!
But you "should" be able to splice in a new length in the middle of any short tube.
As your better at this than I, it must be assume that I still don't really understand why you can't.
They of course make double and triple joiner that could be used to splice if a proper "Glue" can't be found.
I'm probably just taking up your time But I can't see why you aren't able to do this.
Helping you seems a lot harder tan wen your helping me.. life is strange! ":O}
But you "should" be able to splice in a new length in the middle of any short tube.
As your better at this than I, it must be assume that I still don't really understand why you can't.
They of course make double and triple joiner that could be used to splice if a proper "Glue" can't be found.
I'm probably just taking up your time But I can't see why you aren't able to do this.
Helping you seems a lot harder tan wen your helping me.. life is strange! ":O}
Problem #1: There are no barbs on the units that connect to the ends of the tubing. That means that the actual connection to the pump and the radiator are permanent fixtures, and I don't know what I would be getting into in order to remove the hose and lengthen it. If there were barbs there, I might think a bit differently.
Problem #2: running inside the tubing between the CPU pump and the radiator are sensors and at least one of them goes all the way into the radiator itself. Impossible to tell which tube the sensor wiring is in, or where it goes without a proper schematic and a knowledge of how the thing was built.
Problem #3: This is a brand new unit that cost nearly $250. I'm all for mods, and I'm certainly not afraid of the hammer and tongs when doing things I have confidence in, but maybe after a few years of good service I'll think about doing this one. Maybe I'm getting too old to void warranties on brand-new stuff.
Problem #2: running inside the tubing between the CPU pump and the radiator are sensors and at least one of them goes all the way into the radiator itself. Impossible to tell which tube the sensor wiring is in, or where it goes without a proper schematic and a knowledge of how the thing was built.
Problem #3: This is a brand new unit that cost nearly $250. I'm all for mods, and I'm certainly not afraid of the hammer and tongs when doing things I have confidence in, but maybe after a few years of good service I'll think about doing this one. Maybe I'm getting too old to void warranties on brand-new stuff.
Exactly
I was hoping to come up with a more beauteous solution. It would have an additional benefit, and that would be to get the hot discharge from the rad away from the box. If the hoses were, say, a meter long, I could mount the rad on the wall/floor/near the aircon/etc, but it isn't going to happen, clearly.
In the prior build I had in this box, the rad was mounted on the wall about 4 feet away from the box.
The manufacturers of these things are making them to be mounted inside the cases, which, although a good-looking solution, doesn't IMHO grant the same benefits that outside the case would. It's simple thermodynamics; if the rad is in the box, and it's blowing out, then it's sucking air from the case that's already warm over the rad. If it's pulling in, the rad is getting cooler air over it, but it's venting the discharge into the case, which we really don't want either. Our whole raison d'etre is to get the hot air out of the case, no?
So for me, the most logical idea is to mount the rads outside.
I've just see this:
https://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/water-cooling/celsius-s36
Notice the standard G-1/4 fittings on the rad and the pump head? This thing is made with users like me in mind.
Too late now
But good to know.Exactly
I was hoping to come up with a more beauteous solution. It would have an additional benefit, and that would be to get the hot discharge from the rad away from the box. If the hoses were, say, a meter long, I could mount the rad on the wall/floor/near the aircon/etc, but it isn't going to happen, clearly.
In the prior build I had in this box, the rad was mounted on the wall about 4 feet away from the box.
The manufacturers of these things are making them to be mounted inside the cases, which, although a good-looking solution, doesn't IMHO grant the same benefits that outside the case would. It's simple thermodynamics; if the rad is in the box, and it's blowing out, then it's sucking air from the case that's already warm over the rad. If it's pulling in, the rad is getting cooler air over it, but it's venting the discharge into the case, which we really don't want either. Our whole raison d'etre is to get the hot air out of the case, no?
So for me, the most logical idea is to mount the rads outside.
I've just see this:
https://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/water-cooling/celsius-s36
Notice the standard G-1/4 fittings on the rad and the pump head? This thing is made with users like me in mind.
Too late now
Perhaps a little sheet metal work will be able to make the case look better. If you want to bother with it at any rate.
Oh, now I see the problem. Shoulda used a regular sized case maybe? Was a "server" size case really needed? Just being a temporary butt-head, please excuse me!